Seared Scallops with Ramp & Pea Puree

This is a Chicago spring dish, built around the two or three weeks when ramps are actually available. I get mine from Nichols Farm at the Evanston Farmer's Market, foraged from the woodlands out in Marengo. The window is mid-April through mid-May, and then they're gone.

The idea is simple: the aggressive wild-garlic bite of ramps meets the sweetness of spring peas, and you cut through the richness of the scallops with pickled chive blossoms from the garden. It's clean, springy, and hits every note I chase when I cook: a little sweet, a little green, a little acid.

Ingredients

The Scallops

• 1 lb U-10 dry-packed sea scallops
• High-smoke-point oil (avocado oil)
• 1 tablespoon cold butter
• Flaky salt

The Puree

• 2 cups frozen peas
• 1 bunch fresh ramps (bulbs and greens separated)
• Splash of heavy cream
• Zest of half a lemon

Gremolata

• 1 cup Italian flat-leaf parsley, finely minced
• 1 medium garlic clove, minced
• Zest of half a lemon

Pickled Chive Blossoms

• Chive blossoms from the garden, separated into florets
• 2 tablespoons champagne vinegar
• Pinch of granulated sugar

The Cook

30 Minutes Before Service

Pat your scallops dry on all sides with paper towels. Set them on a wire rack in the fridge, uncovered. You want the surface bone dry. Moisture is the enemy of a sear.

While those sit, separate your chive blossoms into individual florets. Whisk the champagne vinegar with a pinch of sugar until it dissolves, then drop the florets in. Let them macerate at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.

20 Minutes Out

Bring a pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Set up an ice bath. Blanch the peas for exactly 60 seconds, until they're vibrant green, then shock them immediately. You want them cold fast.

In a separate pan, sauté the white ramp bulbs in butter over low heat until they go translucent. Don't brown them. Blend the chilled peas, sautéed bulbs, a splash of cream, and the lemon zest until silk-smooth. Season and keep warm.

10 Minutes Out

Prep your gremolata. Finely mince the parsley, garlic, and lemon zest. Toss it all together with a fork. Do this right before service. Gremolata dies if it sits.

3 Minutes to Plate

Heat a cast-iron or heavy stainless skillet to high heat with oil. When it shimmers and just starts to wisp smoke, lay the scallops in a clockwise pattern. Press each one lightly with a spatula for 10 seconds. Don't touch them after that.

After 90 seconds, flip. Add a tablespoon of cold butter and the green ramp leaves to the pan. Tilt the pan and spoon that foaming butter over the scallops for the last 30 seconds.

Plating

Spoon the puree into the center of each plate, creating a slight well. Nestle the scallops clockwise into the puree. Top each one with a pinch of gremolata. Scatter the pickled chive blossoms around and on top of the scallops.